Wild Las Vegas: Burros, Tortoises and Red Rock Canyon

The natural side of Las Vegas, from the wild burros and desert tortoises of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area to the waters of Lake Mead and the red sandstone of the Valley of Fire, with a directory of the places in our guide.

Las Vegas is a city of neon in the middle of the Mojave Desert, and the desert begins where the suburbs end. About 18 miles from the centre of the Strip, Red Rock Canyon is the valley's backyard: red and cream sandstone, Joshua trees and yuccas, wild burros by the roads and, if you are lucky, a desert tortoise.

This is a short, honest guide to the natural side of Las Vegas: the canyon, the lake and the desert parks. Go early, especially in summer, when the heat is extreme; carry far more water than you think you need.

Half an hour from the Strip, wild burros graze below walls of red sandstone.

Red Rock Canyon

Red Rock Canyon became a National Conservation Area in 1990, the first in Nevada, and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. A 13-mile one-way scenic drive runs past the sandstone, with trails, climbing and picnic areas; timed-entry reservations are needed from 1 October to 31 May, between 8am and 5pm, and the visitor centre is open from 8am to 4.30pm.

Wild burros roam the conservation area and the roads around it. They are wild animals: the BLM warns that they can kick or bite, and feeding them draws them onto the roads, where many have been hit by cars.

Lake Mead and the Valley of Fire

East of the city, Lake Mead National Recreation Area covers the lakes behind Hoover Dam and the desert around them, with boating, swimming, fishing, hiking and scenic drives; lake levels change, so check the park's current conditions. North-east, the Valley of Fire glows red: 40,000 acres of Aztec sandstone, with petrified trees and petroglyphs more than 2,000 years old.

Feature: the desert tortoise

The Mojave desert tortoise spends much of its life in burrows, sheltering from the heat, and is most often seen on mild spring days. It is a protected species: wildlife agencies ask visitors never to pick up or move a wild tortoise, as a frightened tortoise can lose the water it needs to survive. At Red Rock Canyon, the visitor centre's outdoor exhibits include a tortoise habitat, the surest place to see one.

Did you know? Red Rock Canyon was the first National Conservation Area in Nevada, designated in 1990.

Our advice

Our advice: book your timed entry to Red Rock Canyon, go at opening time, and walk a short trail before the heat; carry plenty of water and sun protection. Never feed the wild burros, drive slowly on the scenic loop, and never touch or move a desert tortoise. In summer, see the desert at dawn and spend the afternoon indoors.